Steeped in antiquity, embracing the future… Bolander editor CAROLYN FROST visits this gracious Helderberg estate
On a recent glorious spring afternoon, Bolander was invited to join fellow wine lovers at the beautiful Morgenster Estate in Somerset West, where – following on from their brand relaunch in August – they introduced us to The Giulio Range, describing it as a tribute to their passionate founder, father and grandfather: Giulio Bertrand.
“His pioneering spirit kickstarted the local olive oil industry, delivered award-winning Bordeaux-style wines, and introduced South Africans to Italy’s finest grape varietals.
“For over 30 years, he put his heart into soil and cellar at Morgenster Estate, and in true Italian style, this range is created with the intention of celebration,“ said daughter Federica, who was there to share her thoughts on the wines, along with vibrant winemaker Yolande van Staden (who was featured in Bolander recently, celebrating Women in Winemaking during Women’s Month).
To pay homage to their visionary predecessor, the estate’s driving force, mother-and-daughter team Federica and Vittoria, have renamed their prestigious Italian Collection as The Giulio Range.
“Each wine is inspired by his love for opera, bringing his undeniable Italian flair to tables across the world,
says Federica.
I was struck by their sense of custodianship and creativity, at the heart of this venture.
It is truly a reflection of their passion, preservation, perseverance, pride, productivity, and provenance and procedures… all meticulously thought through, and then enacted – if ever a case of harvesting the fruit of their collaborative labours.
But more about the wines…
Nabucco, 2018
Their Nebbiolo is a celebration of one of Italy’s finest varietals, originating from Giulio’s hometown region of Piedmont, Italy. This powerful, well-balanced red wine expresses red and black cherries, spice, liquorice and earthiness paired with floral notes of rose petals and violet. It’s no wonder that this refined and elegant varietal was Giulio’s favourite.
Tosca, 2018
Indulge in this deliciously complex, Tuscan-inspired blend of Sangiovese and classic Bordeaux varieties. With fruit-forward flavours of dried cherry and plum paired with notes of tobacco and oak; Tosca is a true Italian masterpiece. The perfect balance of herbaceous, sweet and spicy notes is a testament to the attention to detail of their founder, Giulio.
Rigoletto, 2022
As a homage to his home country, Giulio imported Sangiovese vines from the rolling hills of Tuscany. Today, they’re still one of the few estates in South Africa to grow and vinify this versatile Italian cultivar. Their single varietal Sangiovese has been made in an approachable style – ideal for savouring on its own or enjoying with food and family.
Caruso, 2022
Their Sangiovese Rosé is reminiscent of long, sunny days in Tuscany. It embodies Giulio’s persistence to bring Italian flavours to the Cape Winelands and beyond. Its subtle fruity aroma is balanced with a lingering aftertaste. Pomegranate, red berries and subtle spices make this velvety wine a much-loved addition to any occasion.
Vespri, 2022
The estate’s rocky soils, windy climate and proximity of the ocean make for the perfect conditions for Vermentino to thrive. Vespri shows off with elegant aromas, vibrant freshness, minerality and lingering citrus flavours. Delicious on its own and versatile with food.
During the past two years, the Morgenster team spent countless hours planning their re-launch, endeavouring to honour the traditions and quality the estate is synonymous with, yet embracing a change accompanying the new generation, and modernisation and fresh visions and intentions.
They were determined (and succeeded!) in retaining elegance and quality, while embracing the changes, and the farm and vineyards have embarked on even more sustainable practices, as they move into this new era.
Patrons of the brand were introduced to the eye-catching new design in August, with the symbolic star (“Morgen‘ster’”) in the new logo, showcasing the Morgenster ‘M’ and the famous “Morning Star”, which is both minimalistic and modern.
After our wine-tasting, we sampled delicious canapes, as we enjoyed the view of the scenic mountains and dam from the stoep of their splendid restaurant, Botanicum.
This estate is one of the jewels in the Helderberg crown, and remains one of my favourite places to visit, and introduce friends to. Highly recommended!
